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Leak detection, pipe repair and repiping

The expensive leaks are the ones you cannot see. A supply line weeping inside a wall or under a slab does its damage quietly for months, and the first sign is usually a water bill that jumped for no reason or a warm patch on the floor.

What this covers

  • Locating hidden leaks without opening every wall
  • Slab leak detection and repair or reroute
  • Pinhole leak repair in copper
  • Pressure testing supply lines
  • Whole house repiping in PEX or copper
  • Shutoff valve and angle stop replacement
  • Repairing lines damaged by freezing

Call about this when

  • A water bill that climbed with no change in how you use water
  • A warm spot on a slab floor
  • The sound of running water when nothing is on
  • Stained or soft drywall, or paint that is bubbling
  • Low pressure at one fixture that used to be fine

Worth knowing before you call

Here is the test worth running before you call anybody. Turn off every fixture in the house, find the water meter and look at the low flow indicator, the small triangle or dial that moves on tiny flows. If it is turning with everything off, you have a leak on the supply side. That single observation tells a plumber more than a paragraph of description and it costs you nothing.

On a slab, a leak gives you two routes. Break the concrete, fix the section, patch the floor. Or abandon that run and reroute a new line overhead through the attic and down the walls. Rerouting is often cheaper and always less disruptive, but it is not always possible depending on how the house is laid out. Get both priced before you agree to either.

Batch it. The trip charge is the expensive part of a small plumbing job, and it is the same whether the plumber fixes one thing or five. Before you call, walk the house and write down everything: the toilet that runs, the shower that will not hold temperature, the faucet you have been meaning to replace since last year. Hand over the whole list at once. It is the single easiest way to spend less.

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